Saeco Incanto S-Class Sirius

[Arsys]

Hello,
I have an Incanto Sirius S-class, that blown up, and now i have Brew Unit blocked on the screen.
After i opend it up i saw that the T8 (bta204-800e) was blown aswell as t4 fuse.
Now i whould like to repair it and to get the parts, but i need a electric scheme for P116_PWRv03 board. and maybe a list of parts so i know what to buy.

Thanx in advance.

 

[Grisu]

Sorry there is no public scheme.
We only got parts of it with reverse engineering.
Brewing unit part should look like in the attachment.

Most times only the TIP33C(=BD245C) is going defective, you can use more powerful TIP35C (from Conrad) or BD249C (Reichelt).

 

[Arsys]

This is helpfull.... thank you.... i will order parts and see if i can fix it... thank you again.
There is diod that i dont know what it is... circled in red in atachement.

 

[Grisu]

could be the 33V/1,2W Zener diode if there is connection to 2x 47 Ohm resistors.

But maybe this 33V regulation part is ok, as there is a 125 Ohm "heating" resistor in series to it and motor, so maybe only the triac has gone this time.

You can check main part without this 33V regulation. pull out middle two (yellow and red) cable from brew motor connector and connect them directly together (isolated from rest).
change triac and fuse and see if its running now, is to fast now but no problem only for testing.

As soon this works connect cables correctly and test again. Voltage must not increase 33V= now on red/blue cable. Otherwise change TIP33C and measure other components (2 resistors, Zener diode, diode-bridge and varistor 45/56V).

 

[Arsys]

Hy....today my parts arrived. I changed the triac, and the tip33, but same thing. ive put the 2 wires toghether and nothing happens. On the connection there is 32 Volts but no motor and no pump sound.
If it helps, in diag menu i have only 2 5 6 9 R1. when i pres 3 grinder works, 1+6 (pump) nothing 0 apears, 1 and 2 alone nothing.
Boiler heats up fast...Diods r ok, Varistors i dont know how to chec them.

 

[Grisu]

Did you check the cables red-blue down to brewing motor, there are coils in the cable where they end on motor side, often broken soldering there, open it and have a look and resolder them.
Or before measure the resistence from red-blue (to motor) should be about 20 Ohm.

Misterious why pump wont work too, it is a completely seperate circuit and seem to be a additional failure. Only a 4A triac supports the pump independent from brewing motor circuit.

What happened to this machine in the past? Did you own it and from one day to the other it was broken?

 

[Arsys]

Well... on the motor (blue+red) i have 0 ohms, when i put the leads , it rises a bit than stabilezes at 0. The machine i bought as a second hand machine, but it wored for 2 years with no problems, i tae the motor out to chec the coils....

 

[Arsys]

If i put the multimeter on beeper, is it ok to beep when i measure blue and red? i get 28.3 and it beeps

 

[Grisu]

take a 9V battery size PP3 or any 12V battery and connect it short time (some seconds, then reversed same time) to red blue on the 4-pin jumper.
Now motor should turn left or right depending on polarization.
Is this working?

Did you have any lightnings around or high voltage spikes when it got defective?

 

[Arsys]

ive powerd it up with a 20v laptop charger on blue and red wires and the motor is working. About voltage spies ... i really dont know....could be.

 

[Grisu]

ive put the 2 wires toghether and nothing happens. On the connection there is 32 Volts but no motor and no pump sound.

OK so cable and motor are working.
But you wrote on connection (I think red-blue) you got 32V, so the motor must turn!
Something is wrong with your description.

 

[Arsys]

My measurments where wrong when i sayd that.... i have 0 when red+blue connected on to the board. the thing is that i connected the 2 midle wires (yellow + red) like you say, and nothing happens. Any thoughts?

 

[Grisu]

When you directly connect red and middle yellow did you put them out of the connector housing? Blue and outer yellows staying on the connector and connected to print.

 

[Arsys]

Yes ...wires out of conector and the rest connected to board, and i tried with conector out also...but nothing happens

 

[Grisu]

Dont know which triac you have changed (for which element), so hard to say, dont know the numbers.
4A Triac maybe for pump or smaller loads.
12A is heater, and 6 or 8A is brewing motor.
You will have to change more triacs and hope!

Test pump on main (230V) to see if it will work.
Or connect an old (Edison) lamp instead or parallel to the pump, if it lights up then pump gets power, there is a clixon (little white thermo fuse) on the side of the pump, maybe burned off.

 

[Arsys]

I`ve power the pump directly and its working. I`ve checked continuity on the wire with the thermo fuse and it ok, i`ve even replaced the wire with another one. I`ve changed 2 varistors (5 and 4).
the parts from the pic 1-5 i`ve changed. 1 + 2 where blown.

 

[Grisu]

Desolder diode bridge between changed parts, will the brewing motor run now in testmode (a bit faster than it should but ok for testing)?

and search for pump triac, its a standalone 4A triac something with 04 in the name and one side directly connected to pump connector.

Maybe something in the multilayer print is burned, have a look at the print with strong backside light through, could be you see anything unusual or wrong.

 

[Arsys]

I dont understand what diods whould i desolder? can u point them on the picture?.
Could be the board.... its swalen at 1 triac pin.. but checked for continuity and seems ok.. il check with light also maibe your right. About the triac for the pump .... i think its a bta204 800B... if u look on the pic. JP28 is the pump connector (left side of the big radiator) and i think T6 is the triac.
Is BTA204 triac a 4A triac? idk

 

[Grisu]

yes it is, BTA204

I said diode bridge! this are 4 diodes in a bridge, beside the blue varistor.

Could be a connection or interruption inside the print layers from one to another layer like ground (one layer).

 

[Ano]

If you think the pump should be running, triac and resistors are good, then check if there is any voltage that makes the triac switch on.
So there must be 230 V AC on the one pin for starters, and it only switches if you have some volts DC on the other pin.