Exprelia HD8856 /Maschine schaltet nicht ein

[Kaputtschino]

Hallo Majolika,

davon ging ich auch aus, dass diese Schuhe Standard sind, ich wollte nur sicher gehen.

 

[Kaputtschino]

Hallo Majolika, hallo Uhrmacher,

besten Dank für den zielführenden Support

Problem gelöst.

Es war nur der Netzschalter.

 

[Majolika]

sehr schön,
danke für deine rückmeldung.

 

[William Pickle]

I have an exprelia machine that will also not turn on, but it is not the switch. I can see 120V AC is going into the board and both of the fuses are continuous, and so are all the thermal fuses on the boiler .

Does anyone have an idea of what I should try next? If I replace the power board is there a good chance the machine will work again?

Sorry for the english, I can see this is a german board. There is always more interest in repairing these machines from the German community.

 

[Kaputtschino]

Dear William,

yes it is a German forum, but nevertheless I guess you will be helped, as Im sure that a couple of members would speak English.
Myself I am unfortunately not the expert, to support you with this specific question on probly an electronic failure in the machine

But I will put a question in principle:

I wonder if you are talking about 120 V? My machine run with 230 V, the normal supply standard in Gemany.

I know that some not European Countries are still suppling 120 V. What is the supply voltage you use for the machine? Did it run the time before or do you use the machine for the first time?

If your standard supply voltage would be 230 V (or similar), please first change the wall socket to be sure that this is not the reason. If it run after change, the former wall socket should be tested by an electrician (e.g. on damaged cable connection). If this isn´t the reason, I think some experts here have more helpful ideas.

 

[William Pickle]

Dear William,

yes it is a German forum, but nevertheless I guess you will be helped, as Im sure that a couple of members would speak English.
Myself I am unfortunately not the expert, to support you with this specific question on probly an electronic failure in the machine

But I will put a question in principle:

I wonder if you are talking about 120 V? My machine run with 230 V, the normal supply standard in Gemany.

I know that some not European Countries are still suppling 120 V. What is the supply voltage you use for the machine? Did it run the time before or do you use the machine for the first time?

If your standard supply voltage would be 230 V (or similar), please first change the wall socket to be sure that this is not the reason. If it run after change, the former wall socket should be tested by an electrician (e.g. on damaged cable connection). If this isn´t the reason, I think some experts here have more helpful ideas.

Hello! Yes, I'm in Canada, 120V is standard and the machine was running fine before this electronic failure. The wall socket is also fine. Thanks for the reply!

 

[uhrmacher]

Kannst Du am Sekundärnetzteil 24V messen? Wenn ja, ist ev. das Flachbandkabel gebrochen und sitzt nicht richtig in den Steckern.

 

[William Pickle]

Can you measure 24V on the secondary power supply? If so, the ribbon cable may be broken and not seated properly in the connectors.

Can you show me which points I should use to measure for 24V ?

I will have a look at the ribbon cable and reseat it. One of my 3d printers has a similar cable and I know they can be trouble.

 

[uhrmacher]

Am großen Kondensator rechts unten direkt über dem kleinen schwarzen Stecker.

 

[William Pickle]

On the large capacitor at the bottom right directly above the small black plug.

I'm not getting any Voltage across that capacitor! Does this mean the transformer is damaged?

Is it time to replace the board or is there another option? From my research it appears the transformer is custom made for Saeco and difficult to replace?

Thanks for your help!

 

[uhrmacher]

Der Transformator ist nie kaputt, es ist die Beschaltung um ihn herum. Prüfe ob Du 150 V DC am Kondensator über dem Transformator finden kannst.

 

[William Pickle]

The transformer is never broken, it's the circuitry around it. Check if you can find 150V DC on the capacitor across the transformer.

The one i've circled in red?

 

[uhrmacher]

Der da

 

[uhrmacher]

an den beiden roten Punkten ( auf dem Gleichrichter) kannst Du messen

 

[William Pickle]

That one

Yes!! I can measure about 170V DC on both of those large brown capacitors. What next?

 

[uhrmacher]

Wenn 170v da und 24 Volt fehlen ist das Netzteil defekt. Jetzt musst du alle Teile im Netzteil messen. Vermutlich ist das IC defekt, aber muss die paar Teile bitte alle durch.

 

[William Pickle]

If there is 170v and 24 volts is missing, the power supply is defective. Now you need to measure all the parts in the power supply. The IC is probably defective, but please go through all the few parts.

Okay, so the problem is in fact on the board then. I have a few thoughts, Maybe you can help me decide how to proceed. Im happy to experiment, but I'm not very knowledgeable in electrical/electronics.

For instance, when measuring the parts in the power supply, as you suggest, I'm not sure how to go about that. I imagine I should be trying to confirm voltage through all the components between the 170V Dc capacitor and the 24V DC capacitor to find out where the voltage is dropping out? Im happy to keep going, but I feel it's rude to ask or expect you to to continue to advise me when I dont have the basic knowledge to move forward on my own.

The other option is to simply buy a new board? I can get one for maybe $150 CAD. It seems the problem is on the board so at least this is a solution, if an expensive one.

Finally, there is an electronics repair near my house. Perhaps I can take him the board and explain what I know so far, there is 170V working here, but not 24V working there.... perhaps someone generally knowledgeable in electronics will be able to fix the board with this knowledge?

Thank you again for your help and advice, its very much appreciated.

 

[uhrmacher]

Ich denke das Beste ist es die Platine zur Reperatur zu bringen. Ein Elektroniker sollte sich gut mit einem sehr einfachen Schaltnetzteil auskennen und es zügig reparieren können.

 

[William Pickle]

I think the best thing to do is to take the board in for repairs. An electronics technician should be familiar with a very simple switching power supply and be able to repair it quickly.

Thank you! I will do that. Very much appreciate all the advice.

 

[William Pickle]

I think the best thing to do is to take the board in for repairs. An electronics technician should be familiar with a very simple switching power supply and be able to repair it quickly.

I'm just watching this....

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about switching power suplies, its making me feel less intimidated about the process.

The IC is what you suspect of being defective (i've circled in red). Is it easy to explain how I would identify if the IC is in fact the problem? I have my multimeter and a solder sucker, and I would feel comfortable to replace the component. It's testing the various components that's the issue, as I wouldn't know what to expect as a normal vs abnormal reading.

Thanks again, I hope it's not rude to continue to ask questions, you have already solved my problem in showing me that replacing the board will correct the issue. So, I don't want to take too much of your time.